QUINOA ORZO WITH ASPARAGUS + PRESERVED LEMON DRESSING

Purchasing my first bundle of asparagus each year marks a tectonic shift in our kitchen. I feel ready to let go of heartier soups and starchy roots as I start to dream of the vibrant greens that only early spring can bring. Peas, wild nettles, bright salads, freshness...

Today I wanted to share a super easy dish that lets asparagus bask in its natural glory. Speaking of natural glory... have you tried storing your asparagus in water? It's a great way to keep the spears firm and fresh. I like the notion of treating asparagus like any other spring bloom... maybe I'm just a produce nerd, but I'd be quite happy to get a bouquet of asparagus in lieu of flowers.

INGREDIENTS

• 1.5 cups uncooked quinoa orzo* (any orzo will do here, or you could substitute a few cups of cooked wild rice for this recipe)
• 1 bunch asparagus, trimmed and sliced
• 1 large or 2 small preserved lemons (if you don't have access to preserved lemons - I think using additional fresh lemon juice and fresh lemon zest would make a nice substitution). For details on making your own preserved lemons, here's a recipe for you.
• 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice + more to taste
• 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan + shaved Parm for serving
• freshly ground black pepper and sea salt
• for serving: arugula or chopped parsley; another squirt of fresh lemon juice; shaved Parm or crumbled goat cheese

*A local company named Edison Grainery has been doing all sort of interesting things with grains, specifically organic quinoa. We're addicted to their quinoa crispies and I really like their quinoa orzo.

Fill and large stock pot with tap water and salt very generously. Set pot over high heat and bring water to a boil.

In a large mixing bowl, set up an ice bath for the asparagus.

When the water comes to a rolling boil, blanch asparagus slices until vibrant green and just tender, depending on the thickness of your stalks, this could take 1-3 minutes. Don't pour out the cooking water, simply scoop out tender asparagus with a slotted spoon and immediately plunge the veg into an ice bath. Keep your salty cooking water on the stove and use it for your orzo.

Cook orzo until it reaches your desired texture. (For those of you using the Edison quinoa orzo, I've found that the cooking time is much longer than that suggested on the package.)

While the orzo is cooking, go ahead and make your dressing. A note on preserved lemons: when using preserved lemons, you want to discard the flesh and use only the peel. Rinse the pieces of preserved lemon peel and place them in a blender or food processor. Add olive oil, lemon juice, grated Parm, plenty of ground black pepper and salt to taste. Blitz all ingredients. Taste for seasoning and add a little more lemon juice and/or salt as desired.

When the orzo has finished cooking, drain and transfer it to a serving dish. Pull asparagus from the ice bath, pat dry and add to the orzo. Generously dress the dish, adding additional salt or lemon juice to your liking.

Serve warm or room temp with ample freshly ground black pepper, shaved Parm or creamy goat cheese, scattered arugula leaves or chopped herbs. Although not necessary, I like to give the dish one last squeeze of fresh lemon juice just to bring out the springy brightness.

Enjoy!

serves 4-6

BTW, did you guys read the new piece by Mark Bittman about cooking and eating in Berkeley? I'm happy to see Mark so enjoying California produce and our beloved Monterey Market, but I have to say... I'm scared that the already-insane parking lot situation is about to get much much worse!

PHYLLIS'S RAW ASPARAGUS + FENNEL SALAD

I'm sure those of you who regularly read food blogs are well aware of Phyllis Grant and her bad ass blog, Dash and Bella. Phyllis's writing is funny, raw, heartbreaking, kinetic, passionate... her words can make you belly-laugh and cry all in one sitting. And her food is good, really good.

Back in the summer of 2009 when I started here, I didn't know anyone writing a blog (let alone a food blog) until one day at the market, Sarah an old friend and early reader of Yummy Supper, said... "Hey did you know Phyllis is writing a blog too?" Phyllis and I had gone to high-school together, had always been friendly, but had never known each other well.

Unbeknownst to either of us, Phyllis and I started our blogs within weeks of one another, each of us cooking, photographing and writing in our own kitchens on either side of Berkeley. After running into Sarah at the market, I rushed home to check out Dash and Bella and I was immediately hooked on Phyllis's stories, photos, and recipes. I reached out to Phyllis right away, and we quickly fell into what my husband calls our "blogmance." For nearly 5 years, Phyllis and I have chatted on the phone for hours at a time, talking about geeky blogging stuff that honestly none of my non-blogging friends would want to hear. Our conversations wander from recipe developing to parenting, aperture to marriage, book writing to home birth. Phyllis has become one of dearest friends and I'm grateful to have had her insights and support throughout this crazy adventure.

...................

I first made Phyllis' asparagus fennel salad way back in 2010 when Dash and Bella was still in its infancy and I haven't been able to forget how good it tasted. When I asked Phyllis if she minded if I shared her salad here, she said she had forgotten all about the recipe. What?! I told her, "This salad is way too good to be forgotten!"

With asparagus reining as queen of the market these days, I want to eat it every which way while the season lasts. I like that Phyllis leaves the asparagus raw in this salad, combining the slivers with shaved fennel, Parmesan and a dressing that packs a serious punch.

INGREDIENTS from Phyllis Grant's Dash and Bella
printable recipe

• 1 shallot, minced
• 1 teaspoon champagne or white wine vinegar
• juice and zest of 1/2 Meyer lemon (any lemon will do here)
• 1 tablespoon capers
• 1 anchovy, chopped fine (Vegetarian friends: leave out the anchovy. The dressing will still be packed with flavor.)
• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 5 tablespoons olive oil
• 12 stalks of asparagus, rough ends trimmed
• a medium fennel bulb (core and stalks removed) + fronds
• flaky salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Parmesan, Piave or Reggiano
• optional: serve on a bed of steamed quinoa

First, whip up your dressing: Combine shallot, vinegar, lemon juice and zest, capers, and anchovy. Set aside for 10 minutes. Then, add mustard and finally whisk in olive oil. Feel free to adjust seasoning with additional lemon juice or olive oil to taste. Set aside. Keep in mind that the dressing can be made (even a couple of days) in advance.

Cut asparagus at an angle into very thin slices. (Phyllis suggests peeling asparagus stalks until just before the tip. If you are using tender young asparagus, the peeling isn't necessary. ) Place asparagus slices in a serving dish. Slice fennel as thinly as possible, using a mandolin if you've got one. Toss the fennel slivers in with the asparagus.

Generously dress the asparagus and fennel. Season with flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Top with a few feathery fennel fronds, plenty of shaved Parm. Serve immediately. (Any leftover salad dressing can be stored in the fridge for up to a week.)

The salad would be beautiful served with grilled fish or lamb chops for dinner, and for lunch, I like nestling the salad on top of quinoa, adding an extra splash of dressing and savoring the party of textures and flavors.

ROASTED ASPARAGUS, TOASTY BREAD, SOFT BOILED EGG + CHERVIL

I cannot believe I have yet to share an asparagus recipe with you this spring! When those gorgeous spears come to market, I start buying them by the bushel, don't you? We've been scarfing down asparagus almost every day for the past few weeks.

Last Thursday, P and I went to a delicious dinner at Camino to celebrate Deborah Madison's brilliant new book, Vegetable Literacy. With Russ cooking up Madison's recipes, it was an unbeatable combination. I immediately went home and knew I needed to try my hand at one of her new recipes, and the first thing I flipped to was the asparagus section. I saw Madison's recipe for a version of the dish I'm sharing today, and I knew I had to make it pronto!



I like that Madison calls for roasting the veg - not a technique I've used for asparagus, though now I will. The roasting was easy, the asparagus tender, and the flavors delish. Instead of hard boiling the egg as per the recipe, I craved the oozy yolk of a soft boiled egg and oh man was that a good move. The mustard vinaigrette mingles with the yolk and all come together to coat the asparagus and toasty bread. I'm a fan.

I ate this asparagus salad for breakfast, but that's just me. I think the salad would make a fantastic lunch, brunch, or light supper.

INGREDIENTS  
inspired by Deborah Madison's Vegetable Literacy, originally from Amelia Saltsman in What We Eat When We Eat Alone
{printable recipe}

• 1 pound fresh asparagus spears
• olive oil
• salt and fresh ground black pepper
• 1-2 soft boiled eggs - see my technique for soft boiled eggs here
• 1-2 slices sourdough bread {GF folks: I used a GF baguette from Mariposa Bakery. In a pinch you could tear up a GF hamburger bun}
• 1 teaspoon Dijon or coarse mustard
• 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
• chervil

Preheat oven to 400.

Trim tough ends from asparagus spears. Lay the spears in a roasting dish, or on a baking sheet. Toss asparagus with 2 teaspoons olive oil, and season with salt and fresh ground black pepper.

Roast asparagus in the hot oven for 10 minutes. Take the pan from the oven, give it a good shake, and roast another 10-20 minutes until spears are tender, and cooked through.

In the meantime, put a small saucepan with water on the stove top to cook your soft boiled eggs. See the rest of the instructions here.

Tear bread into large, rough pieces. Place torn bread onto another baking sheet or roasting pan. Toss with a teaspoon of olive oil and a sprinkling of salt. Place bread in the oven  5-10 minutes, until golden.

Whisk together mustard, vinegar and a pinch of salt. Then whisk in just enough olive oil for a nice emulsified dressing.

Assemble the salad by scattering the roasted asparagus and croutons on a plate. Nestle an egg or two on top. Drizzle on some dressing. Toss on a few sprigs of chervil. Break open those eggs and let all the wonderful flavors mingle.

I love this salad!

There are so many wonderful asparagus recipes floating around these days... Here are a few goodies:

• Asparagus, fennel, piave salad with Meyer lemon caper vinaigrette 
• Buttermilk Asparagus Salad
• Asparagus with Poached Eggs over Grits
• Miner's Lettuce with Soft Boiled Egg and Asparagus
• Asparagus Pesto with Herb Pasta
• Spring Pea and Asparagus Pasta

ASPARAGUS + DUCK EGG FRITTATA

Happy Sunday everyone! If a springy brunch or simple leisurely weekend supper is calling your name, this recipe may be just what you need.

I'm in love with my new butcher shop - they handle animal products with all the TLC it deserves.  "All of the meat... comes from animals who have been 100% pasture raised, no antibiotics, no hormones, just pure, clean, true meat." Plus, everything is sourced from thoughtful farms within 150 miles.

Each time I walk in, there is so much deliciousness to tempt me: quail, house smoked bacon, goat chops, and the eggs... always the eggs. Once you switch to real farm eggs, it is nearly impossible to go back to the bland, mass-produced industrial kind. Farm eggs have so much more flavor, not to mention the health benefits!

Recently I went to the butcher and they were out of chicken eggs, but they had duck. I'd eaten duck eggs before, but had never cooked with them myself, so I asked Monica if they needed any special treatment. She encouraged me to experiment with them in both savory and sweet dishes. We had so much fun making a duck egg scramble for friends. I cooked up some pancakes, and of course this duck egg frittata. The duck eggs didn't disappoint - they were rich, with big fat yokes. I'm going back for more!

 INGREDIENTS
(printable recipe)

• 1/2 cup asparagus, sliced and steamed
• 1 tablespoon (+ 1 teaspoon) olive oil
• 1 tablespoon minced shallot, or spring onion
• 1 tablespoon thinly sliced leeks
• sea salt and fresh ground black pepper
• 2 duck eggs or 4 chicken eggs
• 2 tablespoons salty feta
• 4 teaspoons chopped mixed fresh herbs: tarragon, parsley, and chervil are nice

Slice and steam asparagus. Set aside.

In a small saute pan, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium heat. Saute shallot and leeks for 3-5 minutes, but do not brown. Add steamed asparagus to the bubbling mixture. Saute veggies for another minute. Remove from heat, salt generously to taste, and let cool.

In a medium mixing bowl, whisk eggs with 1/4 teaspoon salt and pinch of freshly ground pepper. When veggies have cooled, add them to the eggs and give the whole thing a good stir.

Crumble 2 tablespoons of feta into a little prep bowl and set it near the stove.

Turn on your broiler.

Place a small well-seasoned cast iron, or non-stick frying pan, on the stove top over medium/high heat. (I used a 6 1/2 inch fry pan for cooking - a perfect size for a two person lunch. But you can easily increase the size of the recipe to make a larger frittata.) Add 1 teaspoons of olive oil to the pan. Swirl the hot oil around to thoroughly coat edges of the pan and prevent sticking. Pour out the excess oil. Put oiled pan back on stove for 30 seconds over medium high to make sure it's nice and hot. Then pour egg mixture into the hot pan and turn the heat down to medium/low. Sprinkle feta over the top of the eggs.

Let the frittata cook on the stove top until you see that all of the edges have cooked, and are starting separate from the sides of the pan. Stick the pan under the broiler to finish cooking the top of the frittata. Keep an eye on it  - you want the eggs to be just cooked, but not well done. A nice moist frittata is what you are looking for.

Let the frittata cool to room temp. Sprinkle with herbs and serve with a simple green salad.

For more eggiliciousness, go here...

Serves 2

ASPARAGUS WITH FETA AND CHERVIL

Finding really good ingredients on the road has been more difficult than I had anticipated. In California we are spoiled by countless, wondrous organic farms, great butchers, fish mongers, and specialty food shops.  New Zealand is lush with green and I imagined it to be an organic veggie-growing paradise. My illusions of Garden of Eden fertility did not bear fruit. With supermarket culture dominating much of the food landscape in New Zealand, I had a surprisingly hard time finding really fresh veg.

We hit up farm stands and farmer’s markets wherever we could. The bustling Saturday market in Nelson is an institution and each of the delicious ingredients for this dish comes from the market. (I won’t give up anyone’s cover, but the salty fresh feta was a contraband, raw, unregulated treat.)

Having limited access to top notch ingredients while traveling has been a good reminder that keeping my cooking simple  - which is the way I like it anyway - makes for really tasty meals. The success of this dish is completely dependent on the quality of the ingredients you use. When you have farmer’s market delights, keep it simple.

QUINOA SALAD WITH FAVAS AND PRESERVED LEMON

I am always looking for new ways to enjoy quinoa and I suspect this recipe will become a staple for us when favas are in season. If you don’t have access to favas, I think steamed, chopped asparagus or even spinach, would be a delicious substitute in this dish. Plus here's another use for those preserved lemons you might have made with me a while back.

Eating favas in the middle of California winter, I feel like a traitor to my friends at home. Here in New Zealand it is early Summer and favas ( aka “broad beans” ) are ready for harvest and impossible for me to resist. I stumbled on this recipe in Australia’s Gourmet Traveller (my new favorite food mag) and loved the mix of flavors. I ended up making a lot of changes to the original recipe until I was satisfied with the balance of fresh, creamy, lemony, flavors I craved. I served the salad to P and my mom - when they oohed and aahed, I figured I needed to share the recipe with you.

This salad can be a one-bowl-meal in itself or works as a substantial side dish for grilled fish or chicken.

Italian Roasted Asparagus and Beets with Garlic-Bean Crostini

When I started Yummy Summer nearly a year ago, I wanted to create a place for sharing recipes. One of the most common conversations I have with friends and family is.....What have you been cooking lately that you really love? Any new ideas?

We all get into ruts in our own kitchens and it is such a joyous relief to tap into the repertoires of food-loving friends. I solicited recipes and many contributed to Yummy Supper in its nascent phase. With life being so busy for everyone, most of my cooking buddies barely have time to get supper on the table, let alone an extra minute to blog. On the other hand, I have found myself completely inspired by cooking new things, revisiting old favorites, and taking endless photos of it all.

Rachel is one of the best cooks I know. Her food is full of soul, love, health, and deliciousness. Anytime she shares a recipe, I know it will be good.

Rach sent me this recipe, and the next day I peeked into my box from Riverdog Farm and look what I found...

Here's Rachie's latest contribution... 

"Here's another recipe taken from Amy Coulter's One-Pot Vegetarian Dishes....  I follow Chez Panisse Vegetables' directions for roasting beets because I think it's easier than peeling them pre-roast, as Coulter suggests, but it does make the recipe two, rather than one pot.  Still, it's easy and yummy.  A great way to eat that lovely asparagus in season!

INGREDIENTS
adapted from Amy Coulter's One-Pot Vegetarian Dishes

• 1 19-oz can or 2 cups cooked cannellini beans
• 3 Tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons olive oil
• 2 Tablespoons grated Romano cheese
• 2 crushed cloves garlic
• 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
• 1 loaf Crusty Italian Bread (Bay Area GF folks, I suggest fresh bread from Mariposa Bakery)
• 1 large bunch beets, scrubbed and tops removed
• 1 lb. asparagus, tough ends removed
• 4 lemon wedges

Preheat oven to 400.

In food processor, combine beans, 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the cheese, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste.  Puree until smooth.

Roast beets whole in a covered dish with a splash of water for about 45minutes. Cook until tender when pierced with a fork.  When cool enough to handle, rub off the skins, halve and slice 1/4 inch thick.  Toss with 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar while still warm, allowing beets to sit for 10 minutes.  Add 1 teaspoon olive oil and salt to taste.

Brush slices of bread lightly with oil and bake on a sheet 5-7 minutes - until lightly toasted.  Shake crumbs off sheet.

Toss asparagus with 1 teaspoon olive oil and salt to taste.  Spread in a single layer on baking sheet and roast until tender about 10 - 15 minutes.

Set the bowl of bean puree in the center of a serving platter with beets, asparagus and lemon slices arranged around it. Our family eats this like an open-faced sandwich.  A little arugula is a nice addition, too."

Thank you Rach for this new recipe. It sounds so good! And another satisfying veggie-laden dish with no meat to be seen. Check out these other tasty recipes that Rachel submitted to Yummy Supper: Lentil Salad and Collard and Rice.

Cheers!

Asparagus in Parchment Packets

Asparagus season is still with us and thanks to Riverdog Farm, we get a beautiful bundle every week in our CSA box. After making tarts, risottos, salads, and lots of stir fries, I stumbled upon a new simple way to cook asparagus. For years, I steamed asparagus. A recent article in the NY Times addresses the problems with steaming, uneven cooking being the most common one. The much-respected Paula Wolfert suggests baking asparagus with herbs in parchment packets - this method makes for asparagus that is tender and infused with the flavor of herbs. Plus, I am a sucker for the charm of something wrapped in parchment.

If you are looking for a new asparagus technique to add to your repertoire, give this one a try. The method is easy and delicious.

INGREDIENTS
adapted from the NY Times, April 16th , 2010
originally from Paula Wolfert’s “The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen: Recipes for the Passionate Cook"

• 1 bunch asparagus
• olive oil
• salt
• a few sprigs of fresh herbs such as thyme, chervil, tarragon and/or dill
• 1 piece of parchment
• kitchen twine

Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Wash and trim asparagus.

Drape parchment over a cookie sheet. Lay the asparagus in the middle of the paper - drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Toss to coat the spears. Lay a few sprigs of herbs on top. Wrap the edges of the paper around the asparagus to enclose the veggies in a packet. Wrap with twine.

Transfer the packet of asparagus to the oven. After about 45 minutes, enough time to make the rest of your meal, your asparagus will be ready to eat. (The NY Times suggested an hour in the oven, but I thought the asparagus was overcooked. 45 minutes in the oven rendered the asparagus perfectly cooked for my taste.) If you like your asparagus a little more cooked, simply retie the parchment packet and return to the oven until it is done to your liking.
 
Enjoy!

Spring Vegetable Tart

Asparagus, how many ways can I adore you?

I'm not sure about you, but for me asparagus is so emblematic of Spring, my favorite season. This elegant vegetable is the main event here, and Riverdog's green garlic is a worthy complimentary flavor.  I continue to be inspired by our Riverdog Farm CSA Box.  Every week it is a treat to see what they are giving us and a savory tart is a great vehicle for endless vegetable combinations.

Paul is always willing to wander the woods for nettles, so we added nettles to the mix. If you aren't a nettle hunter, spinach would also work well in this tart.

INGREDIENTS

• 2-3 cups sliced asparagus
• 3 cup nettle or spinach leaves
• 3/4 cup sliced green garlic or spring onion  
• olive oil
  
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1/8 tablespoon kosher salt
• 1 cup grated Gruyere
• 3 oz chevre, crumbled
  
• 1/2 recipe flaky tart dough

Preheat oven to 375.

Follow directions for flaky tart dough. Roll out dough and fit into lightly buttered tart pan. Refrigerate  until fillings are ready.

Saute greens with a little olive oil. Set aside to cool. Squeeze to release any excess liquid. Chop.

Heat one tablespoon olive oil and one tablespoon butter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add sliced green garlic. Saute for 2 minutes. Add asparagus slices and salt. Saute for a minute then add a splash of water, cover, stew for 8 minutes or so. Remove lid and cook another 2-3 minutes until liquid is reduced and vegetables are glistening with butter and oil. Asparagus should be just cooked and not at all mushy.  Set aside.

Remove tart pan and dough from refrigerator and assemble the tart:


First sprinkle grated Gruyere to cover the bottom of the crust.....

Next add the sauteed and chopped greens....

Distribute the asparagus and green garlic...

Dot the top with chevre...

Bake on the lower rack of your oven for 30-40 minute until the crust is golden brown.

Asparagus and Lemon Risotto

Oh, Spring is here and I am so happy. Our Riverdog Farm box had green garlic and asparagus this week. My backyard garden is going wild with happy veggies. And trees all over town are still dripped with ripe Meyer Lemons. I love this time of year!

I am a sucker for risotto, which is for me the ultimate comfort food. Some people avoid making risotto because of all the stirring, but I encourage you to try it at home, if you don't already. This asparagus and lemon risotto from Alice Waters is a simple and delicious taste of spring.

I must warn you I am a fiend for asparagus these days and have an asparagus and nettle tart post coming soon. If you love asparagus as much as I do, check out these inspiring recipes at Dash and Bella and Crumpets and Cakes.

INGREDIENTS
adapted from the Art of Simple Food by Alice Waters

• 1 pound asparagus spears
• 2 stalks of green garlic (or Waters calls for 1 small yellow onion)
• 1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
• 4-5 cups chicken broth 
• 1 lemon
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• salt
• Parmesan
• Chervil or Parsley

Risotto is thoroughly infused with the flavor of whatever broth you use. Try a homemade broth if you can - it makes all the difference.

Wash asparagus and trim off rough ends. Slice spears at a diagonal.  Set aside.

Zest one lemon. Squeeze juice. Set aside zest and juice.

Pour broth into sauce pan, heat, and maintain a low simmer.

Thinly slice green garlic. Or if you are using onion, finely chop.  

Heat 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat in a heavy-bottomed 2 1/2 - 3 1/2 quart sauce pan. Add garlic/onion and cook until soft, but not browned. Then add Arborio and stir to coat the rice. Cook for a few minutes until the rice becomes slightly translucent. 

Add wine and lemon zest. Stir and cook for a few more minutes until the wine is completely absorbed. 

Use a ladle to add one cup of warmed broth to the risotto pan. Also add salt (how much salt depends on how salty your broth is already). Stir and bring mixture to a vigorous simmer. Don't let the rice absorb all the broth. Waters suggests letting the rice "thicken" with the broth, then to add another 1/2 cup.  (My original risotto guru, Patricia Wells, suggests keeping at least a "thin veil" covering the cooking rice at all times.) Continue to add 1/2 cup of broth at a time and stir rice frequently.

About 10 minutes after you first added began to add broth, toss the asparagus into the cooking rice. Continue to stir and add broth as before until the rice is tender with a slight bite in the center.

When risotto is just done, add 1/2 of the lemon juice, 1/2 cup grated Parmesan, and 1 tablespoon butter. Stir vigorously to incorporate ingredients, then let it rest for a minute or two. At this point add more salt and/or lemon juice if necessary, and freshly ground pepper to taste. 

Serve in a heaping mound and top with freshly chopped parsley or chervil. Enjoy!